When it comes to jewellery, chains provide an essential functional role, merging practicality with aesthetics. Few buyers realise the enormous variety and types of styles available. Factor in length, gauge (thickness) and metal type and the number of options becomes staggering.

Whether you’re layering necklaces, adding a pendant, or searching for the perfect bracelet, the right link style can completely transform your look.

In this guide, we’ll walk you through the most popular varieties, from classic cable and curb chains to bold rope and figaro designs. We’ll also explore how each style suits different aesthetics, outfits, and occasions.

The Belcher

The Belcher, also known as the rolo chain, features uniform, round or oval links typically wider than they are thick, giving it a sturdy yet refined appearance. Originally popularised in the 18th century, this classic chain style offers timeless appeal and versatility. Its balanced design makes it suitable for both men and women. It pairs beautifully with pendants thanks to its strength and even spacing. For a minimalist look, wear a delicate Belcher on its own. Or, choose a heavier version to add substance to statement pendants.

Box Chains

The box chain, sometimes referred to as a Venetian chain, is distinctly characterised by square-shaped links that are tightly connected to form a smooth, sleek profile. This design gives the chain a modern, geometric look and a solid structure. This style offers clean lines and versatility—worn alone for a minimalist statement or paired with pendants thanks to their strength and balanced weight. Available in various thicknesses, finer box offer subtle elegance, while thicker styles make a bold, contemporary impression. Their resistance to tangling and kinking also makes this style a practical choice for everyday wear. We provide finer box styles with most of our diamond pendants, in addition to classic curbs.

The Classic Curb

The curb chain is a classic and instantly recognisable jewellery style, featuring uniform, oval-shaped links in a twisted and flattened style lying neatly in a repeating pattern. This design creates a sleek, interlocking to catch the light with a subtle shine and elegant drape. Known for its strength and flexibility, the curb chain is a popular choice for both men’s and women’s jewellery. This smooth and comfortable style provides a bold statement, or can be paired with a pendant for a more personalised look.

The Figaro Chain

The Figaro chain is a distinctive and stylish jewellery design characterised by a repeating pattern of one long oval link followed by two or three shorter round links.

The name derives from the character Figaro, the clever and charismatic barber from the famous operas The Barber of Seville and The Marriage of Figaro—both written in the late 18th century. These operas were immensely popular across Europe, especially in Italy and France, and Figaro became a symbol of style, wit, and flair.

Italian jewellers were inspired by the rhythm and sophistication associated with the character. Naming the chain after such a cultural icon gave it an air of elegance and continental charm that continues to appeal to jewellery lovers today.

Snake Chains

Snake chains, as the name suggests, resemble the scales of a serpent. This compact, flat-lying chain offers less flexibility compared to other styles. This popular style provides a decorative and luxurious alternative to open-link designs, but can be difficult to repair if it breaks.

Bead or Ball Chains

The ball chain is also known as a bead chain or dog tag chain. This style features small metal balls linked together at regular intervals by short connector rods. Its flexible, lightweight structure makes it a popular choice for minimalist necklaces, and military ID tags.

Their uniform design and smooth finish give them a clean, modern look. Ball styles come in a wide variety of diameters, starting from 1.5mm. Pendants worn on this style remain in place. As a result, they are less popular for slider pendant designs.

The Rope Chain

Rope chains provide a visually striking, compact chain style crafted from a series of metal links twisted and woven together. The appearance resembles that of an actual rope.

This luxurious chain design provides strength and an intricate appearance. Rope chains catch and reflect light from multiple angles, giving them a shimmering, elegant look. Their durable construction makes them ideal for wearing on their own. Their strength suits heavier diamond set pendants, offering a blend of style and function. Rope styles suit fine and fashion jewellery for men and women. Furthermore, their timeless appeal ensures they remain a staple in any well-rounded jewellery collection.

Foxtail and Franco Wheat Design

Two similar styles with a decorative appearance are the Foxtail and Franco (or Wheat) chains. Both appear alike, but with differences.

The Foxtail chain features a series of oval links, connected and twisted at slight angles. This chain style has a braided, feathered appearance. Its soft, fluid design provides a textured look similar to a fox’s tail—hence the name. Foxtails provide flexibility and elegant movement for statement necklaces and feminine styles.

In contrast, the Franco features tightly woven V-shaped links that create a solid, structured chevron pattern. Francos are sometimes referred to as Wheat, but also Spiga Chains. Spiga, the Italian word for Wheat, explains this alternative name.

This gives the a more geometric, bold profile with a squared or rounded silhouette, depending on the finish. Durable and visually striking, The Franco provides strength with a sleek look, ideal for masculine jewellery.

A Guide to Chain Lengths

Depending on your neck size, different lengths vary in length during wear. The following infographic provides a guide to how different chains appear on an average-sized lady’s neck. Longer chains suit statement pendants worn over clothing. By comparison, smaller lengths often include an extender section to provide a versatile choice of two sizes. For example, 16 inches extending to 18 inches.

Choosing the best precious metal option

The decision of chain style includes the choice of which precious metal to select. Most of the styles mentioned are available in Silver, Gold (9 carat, 14 carat, 18 carat, and 24 carat), and in various colours. For example, White Gold, Yellow Gold and Rose Gold. Silver remains the most cost-effective option, with Sterling Silver popular as a lower-cost alternative.

Gold remains the most luxurious choice. Keep in mind that the cost soars for heavier chains made in Gold. Especially, as Gold prices have surpassed record prices in recent months. A lighter, trace-chain makes more sense for small gold pendants, available in different thicknesses or gauges. On a cautionary note, watch out for hollow or plated chains offered at too-good-to-be-true prices. And, finally, insist on a hallmark when purchasing new in the UK.